Johor vs Klang Bak Kut Teh: What Makes It Different (And Worth the Trip)
Photo Source : @UiHua Cheah
Most Malaysians know bak kut teh as meat in a rich, dark, herbal broth thickened with collagen - usually served up in a large single pot or multiple small bowls. However, bak kut teh takes a different form in Johor.
And no, we’re not talking about pepper soup bak kut teh (if it can be considered bak kut teh).
Bak kut teh was originally a ‘labourer’s food’
Photo Source : @UiHua Cheah
The history of bak kut teh isn’t well-documented, but it’s said to have been invented by Hokkiens in Klang.
Back in the early 20th century, Chinese labourers working at Port Swettenham (now Port Klang) needed something cheap, filling, and restorative. Pork ribs were simmered with Chinese herbs to create a broth that could keep them going through long, physically demanding days. Even the name bak kut teh reflects it’s humble origins - a straightforward description of the meal: Meat, Bone, and Tea.
In Johor, Teochew labourers made their own version of bak kut teh
Photo source: Google Maps
There’s no official story for the birth of Johor bak kut teh, but the most common explanation is the same for all viral food trends - if it’s good, word will spread. As the dish gained popularity, the recipe travelled down the west coast of Malaysia.
However, it didn't stay "pure" once it hit Johor.
The Johor Sultanate’s lucrative gambir and pepper plantations were run by Teochew labourers under the kangcu system. Whether due to the availability of ingredients or different taste palates, the ‘Southern Style’ bak kut teh reduced the amount of herbs and dark soy sauce, and continues to use charcoal to maintain a mellow temperature as to not ‘burn’ the ingredients.
The result is a lighter, cleaner-tasting soup that’s more meat-forward and umami-rich compared to the heavier, thicker, and darker Klang style. On top of that, you’ll find that pickled mustard greens (kiam chai) are a standard accompaniment in any Johor-style bak kut teh shop, as it pairs very well with the savoury soup.
But does Johor bak kut teh contain pepper?
(Un)fortunately, no. The pepper soup bak kut teh popular in Singapore is generally considered to be a separate branch from the bak kut teh tree. In fact, many still debate if it should be considered bak kut teh at all.
Here’s where to try authentic southern-style bak kut teh in Johor
Photo source: Google Maps
Driving to Johor Bahru can be exhausting, especially in the heat or, worse, in heavy traffic. And after a long, hard day, a hot bowl of nutritious bak kut teh will really hit the spot!
If you don’t already have a favourite restaurant, here are four that are local Johorean-approved. If you have time to spare before your ferry ride to Batam, your tummy will thank you for it!
Soon Huat Bak Kut Teh (25 mins from Berjaya Waterfront)
154, Jalan Pahlawan 2, Taman Ungku Tun Aminah, 81300 Skudai, Johor Darul Ta'zim
Google Maps link
Bak Cheng Bak Kut Teh (21 mins from Berjaya Waterfront)
81, Jalan Harmonium 35/1, Taman Mount Austin, 81100 Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Ta'zim
Google Maps link
Shun Fa Bak Kut Teh (22 mins from Berjaya Waterfront)
43, Jalan Indah 16/12, Taman Bukit Indah, 81200 Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Ta'zim
Google Maps link
Batu 8, Jalan Mawai, Kampung Haji Mohd Jambi, 81900 Kota Tinggi, Johor Darul Ta'zim
Google Maps link
In a rush to catch the ferry to Batam? Berjaya Waterfront has you covered.
Photo Source : @UiHua Cheah
More than just a ferry port, Berjaya Waterfront is also a 4.5 storey mall with a duty-free zone. Here, you will find sit-down kopitiams such as Jubilee’s Nanyang Coffee and D’JB Kopitiam, or quick takeaways like 7-Eleven and Daily Fresh.
Grab a quick meal, enjoy your Batam holiday, and rest assured that you’ll have ample time for that bak kut teh when you’re back.
Check out more exciting events and stores on Berjaya Waterfront’s Instagram!